Jaffna
At the northern tip of Sri Lanka, the Jaffna peninsula is steeped in history – both ancient and modern.
Largely inaccessible for nearly three decades, Jaffna is now free to welcome visitors, and has retained its spirit and vibrancy, despite many years of isolation and turmoil. Jaffna has undergone much hardship due to terrorism and war, and the effect of this destructive and traumatic period is still evident – although this ancient city has risen up valiantly; as it has done all throughout history. While Jaffna is highly influenced culturally by the Indian state of Tamil Nadu across the Ocean, it also retains its own complex identity shaped by a wide cross-section of influences, including Muslim, Portuguese, Dutch, British and Sinhalese. The busy town and its outskirts are a mix of old colonial charm and Hindu architecture, liberally dotted with Dutch and British style residences. A majority of Jaffna’s population are Tamil Hindus, but Christianity is widespread too. The region is scattered with ancient Hindu temples with colourful statues; colonial period churches that date back to the 17C; and interestingly ruins of ancient Buddhist temples that speak of long ago conflicts. The isolated islands around Jaffna peninsula are certainly worth hopping the ferry for too.
Jaffna Public Library
The Jaffna Public Library once had over 97,000 books and was the biggest library in Asia in the early 80’s. It had many valuable historical books and manuscripts written on palm leaves, historical documents and various important newspapers containing political history. While it is a historic symbol it also serves as a symbol of violence for Sri Lankans as this valuable library was burnt down in 1981 on the nights of May 31st and June 1st by a Sinhalese mob in response to a rally that was held on May 31st where 3 Sinhala policemen were killed. It was considered one of the most violent ethnic acts. Valuable works by the likes of Ananda Coomaraswamy, Sir Isaac Thambiah were among the destroyed works. Although it was reopened in 1982 it was attacked again in 1983 which was the beginning stages of the Civil Conflict that would continue on for 30 years. It was bombed once again in 1985.
Fittingly, one of the first major public buildings to be reconstructed after the 2002 ceasefire agreement was the Jaffna Public Library. While it may not have the valuable books and manuscripts that it was once famous for, The Jaffna Public Library is still very much a place of interest for anyone travelling to Jaffna. The library is spacious building with a statue of the Hindu goddess of knowledge Saraswati watching over it.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kobil
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil situated in Jaffna is one of the most important and impressive Hindu temple on the Island. It is a towering structure decorated with brass work and has various Gods on the outside. Additionally the gold paint used in most places adds to its spectacular imagery. Its main deity is Lord Murugan or Skanda.
The original Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil was built in 948AD but was destroyed. The current kovil is the 4th replica and was built in 1734AD and stands at a different location to the original structure. Over the years it has been renovated numerous times in an attempt to make it look like the original one and now it even has a clock tower, a holy garden, a pond and a shrine surrounding the main kovil.
There are several priests who speak English and are able to answer questions regarding the kovil. When entering shoes must be removed and men have to remove their shirts too. One has the opportunity to say a prayer by the sacred tree, which can be found near the temple and take a cloth threaded in gold wrap a few coins and tie it to a tree.
This kovil represents punctuality, neatness and order and is a religious haven for Hindu devotees. It is also the focus of an extravagant Hindu festival which happens during 25 days in the months of July and August. Note that some displays of self mutilation by entranced devotees can be quite disturbing, especially for younger travellers.
Keerimalai Tank
The Keerimalai Tank is a natural spring situated next to the sea with only a wall separating the two. There is a large bathing tank next to it and the water required for it is acquired from an underground spring named Tellipallai-Maviddapuram. While this is not a hot spring, the water is said to have healing powers. Keeramalai means “mongoose mound” in Tamil and legend has it that an Indian priest bathed in it and was cured of his mongoose face, hence the name. There is a kovil next to it which is said to have been built by a princess who was cured of her horse shaped head after bathing here.
Many devotees are seen worshipping and bathing here all throughout the day, however the best time to bathe is in the morning before the crowd arrives. This complex overlooks the Palk Strait and provides a very scenic and serene view. Even though it is a place of worship there is plenty of noise and laughter from the pool as adults and children alike enjoy their daily bath. All in all it is a place of worship and much fun for people of all walks of life. It is best that females bathe in something modest such as a t-shirt and shorts or a sarong as it is spring is deemed sacred. There are changing rooms on site.
Casuarina Beach
This long stretch beach derives its name from the Casuarina trees along the beach. It is approximately 20km from Jaffna and is situated in Karainagar and is a popular destination among the locals. A unique feature of this beach is that you are able to walk quite a long way into the clear blue water. The waters are quite calm with its gentle blue waves making it the ideal place for relaxing. The sand at Casuarina Beach is white rather than golden amplifying the beauty of the view and adding to the uniqueness of the beaches of the area. You will see fisherman quietly going about their daily duties which adds to the charm of this destination. There are small hotels and rest houses if you want to spend a night. Casuarina Beach is definitely worth a visit and should be included in your itinerary when visiting the Jaffna peninsula and is ideal after a day of travelling and sightseeing as one can relax and rejuvenate here.
